3 oo ~> ^ > > > ~> > > > > 

> ^ >o o > > > > >:>■■;>> ' V> 
l> 3 j > :> ^ > 3 > \3 ^ > 3 3 ' 3 >. 

j T »:>3 >32> > >"^> 3 "> 3 

< O^ >3 3 5 > > >>J> >o 



> > >^^^?e 



> 3 



> »:> 

, > ■ ) > O 

o > > 

> ~> v>3 

> > > 

D O 

>> 3 > ^> 

> > > : ;> 

> ) i > 



> • > > :> > > 
S 3 • s> 3 > ■ > > > 3 ' 3 
^ o > >c> 3 > ^ 3 > > 

• ) > D 3 D 
>> 3 3 3 ^ > 33 3 > : I> 

< > ^> > ^> E ° > ■■■■> > ^ 

•» >> >>> > ^_ »> -> > > 

,^> 2> ^> -> BO 

> > ;^ > 

> 3 > > D » 

> ' x> ."^> > ;:> . 

))) > ) y ^ 
>£> y ;) s> 3 



J LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.} 




O 3 
3 > 3 

> ^ 
3 i> 



3 E> 



3 



• > 



=> »> > z> to -o > >> > • ^ 2 ' 
> > > > i > > v> > o 5 

j ^> > > > "> \> >-^^> >0>' ? O 3 
^> >-'!»0 >'" """> ■."> >0 3 > > 

<> > 2>*o o oo > ^ > 
.>--> a» ^> i^r> o> .3)3 >■ ' ■ B> ) 

> > "> » 3 ^» > > > ^» > 

) i -> ^ > V>o^> r> >Dv>- > S> > 

^> L>t> > ^> r> ■■ 3 f> 3 %L> "> » : -> 3 
. xo > > > > 3 33S> >' ; ^ 3 

> > .>> > > > > -> > fO > S> 3 

>> > > >> . > :> > >■> > > . ;> > 

■ 3C> > > > > -3 -~> -> 3 •> > > 

3 >-^ >>TS f> > 3 > ^> 3 



. >w '^ 



3 3; 



3 3 o 3> o j 53 ^ 

r> •> > 3 33 > > v> > > > 

> :> > .>,,^ > > > ■ > •« > 3 



)^d~))>v)o^ > > > 3 3 3 ,J> 

-, ) .> ;y v, > ) > i> '■- VV 

>1>3 3 3 33 3 > 3> 33 >> 3 33 

^;1>)3 3 3 D ) 3 ^2§K23§ 

> 3> 3» 3> ^> : s> 3> 3> -> 3 z>2 33>J3 :>:>}> 

~oW3>, 3 3 3> 3 > 3 ! 

:> 333 ]>.'^3 v-> 3> 3 3 3 3>3:>j 
■ •>•> > - 5^ §> ~u> •-> ' v) 33 ^> 33 ;>> 
; e> 3> m . 3 



rm 33 

> ■. o •■ • 3> 3> > 

;> > 3 

;. j d > y 
^ 3 ■> >jt> > 

, >33 > > 3> 3 3 

5 i~>X> •> J 3> 

> >£> i> >3i: 
3O0315 

3 ^ 3303 

t> »3>3£> 



> 3> ^> 3> ^ 

> 3 3"2>0 






0> 3> ""■> 2> 3> 3 t>"^>.v^ D > 3D 3>2> 3D 5> 

> .3 ' ::> . 3>3>' :>">>>!> "3^>3>3> 

» 3 > >:3>3>:^>3>3T>3 33) 3>333 /> 

3 j ■> :> 3 33 33T>3 V3> > 3 3> 3 t53 
33>> 3 3l£>-3 5^3 3 3 3 5^ "B 

3 3 33 >3>3 3 

> 333 3 33 3 
3^?>3 3>CO *T>3 >^3 

&^-^3R v '^»:>> -^3 3 .r53 ' ; >3 

3-3 3^ >^R ^ ^ >3;-3-:;33 

> 3 3 33 3)33) "3 33 WV^ 

> 3 3 33 33 3 3 3^ )^>3 " 
> 2> 3 33 33 m 3 33 333 

'^ ■ v 333> 3> 3X3^>3 m- ^33^3s^ -3- 



>3>_^^>3> ^ 



>33 33 
33 3 

333 33 

3 3 >3' s 3'J 

3333 ^-3 
3 3 33 > 

> 3 33 

3T3-32T>. 

3 3 d3>3 ~>3 
3 3 P3 
3^> 33 

33 : "33 



3 -^ 333 3 ~33333 3 3 33 ' ^ s" 

3 v|>33 333^D3 33> <v^ 
:3 )3333 33 3 333> ^ ■ 3^ - 

3 .^ 3-3 3>:>3^33. 3 ;333> y~> 

• 3 3:33>333 33 3 •333333 3%<^ 

3 3333X)^3 1«)-)> ; 3 ( ^ 
3 ~> ■ 33 3^3>3333 : >3> - > 33 ? 3 ^ : 3"3-.^ 



■n -^>> ^> 



^55^ S ; 



ULLRICH'S, 



ffatent ffleitisimttJj §}*lt, 



AND 



APPARATUS FOR DRAFTING 



Tailors' Patterns. 



By F. H. ULLRICH & SONS. 



k 

JAW ESC. BALDWIN & CO,, Steam Job Printers, 
35 & 37 Vesey Street. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by Frederick H. Ullrich 
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, 



Jtcf:/. 




PREFACE. 



The reasons which gave me the occasion to work out these im- 
provements for the public benefit, by which the drafting of garments 
can be done in a mechanical way, are as follows : 

Since I have found out the difficulties in cutting a well fitting 
garment without making any studies before, on account of various 
deviations of the bodies from the normal form. 

Therefore, I have made it my task to bring relief herein — and it 
has required a study of one-fourth of a century to invent at least a 
method, which is setting aside all these difficulties by observing 
correctly the instructions which are required by this method. 

To save the customer some trouble, there are only a few, but 
sure measures, by means of the constructed Measure-belt, to be 
taken, since the inside length of Leg, as well as Arm-length, is con- 
structed by itself. 

To transfer the form of the body correctly upon the pattern 
without loosing time for reckoning, I have invented a moveable 
apparatus, by means of which, any kind of theoretical copy will be 
set aside and patterns will be drafted in a very short time, since the 
different parts are to be drawn in connection together, and not as by 
other methods, each part single. 

Also, I have invented an apparatus for Pantaloons, by means of 
which they can be drafted prompt and correctly in a mechanical 
way. 

This method is also to be used for Ladies, just as profitable, and 
will produce also a good fit. 

First. — This work consists of an apparatus and ten drawings for 
the upper part of the body. 

Second. — An apparatus with six drawings for the under part of 
the body. 

Third. — A Measure-belt, which can also be used very practically 
for any other method of measuring. The construction of this belt 
is shown in the front diagram. 

Fourth. — A full description of the whole work. 

It will be readily observed that by means of the 
furnished description and Drawings, the Appa- 
ratus can be used without* further explanation* 
Lessons, however, will be given by the hour when 
desired* 



Description of tli e Measures. 



By measuring the body, the management is the following : 

The Belt is to be adjusted around the body immediately above the 
Hips, and closed by the Clasp at the back in such a manner that the 
Belt fits tightly to the body, so as to indicate the correct partition 
of the upper and lower part of the body, and that the Clasp rests 
exactly on the Spine, which is shown in the front diagram. 

i . Construction-measure. — The figure of the whole circumfer- 
ance is to be marked, which must be measured around the Shoulder- 
plates over the arms and breast, only, by Ladies, a second circumfer- 
ance measure immediately below the arm-pit and over the highest 
part of the Breast is necessary, which must also be taken by hunch- 
backed persons. 

2. Hip-measure. — This is to be measured alongside the lower 
edge of the Belt, toward the sides over the Hips, and at the front 
over the stomach. 

J. Seat-measure. — This is to be measured over the Seat and at 
the front below the stomach. 

4. Knee-measure: — The Knee forms itself by means of the draw- 
ing, only by requirence for a determinated width it is necessary to 
take the measure. Hereby it is intended that if the pants should be 
made wider or tighter, it is only to be done at the side. 

5. Foot-measure.^— The circumferance of the foot is to be meas- 
ured and as far as the pants, should reach towards the front, a mark 
is to be made upon the shoe, which mark is required afterwards by 
measuring the length, since the height of the feet are very different. 

6. Waist-measure. — This measure is indicated by the Belt, on 
the Spine and must now be marked, then the Hip indicators of the 
Belt are slidden upon the corresponding figures at both Hips, from 
where the length-measure is to be taken. 

7. Length-measure. — This is now to be measured with the ap- 
plied tape-measure, at the front upwards to the vertical point, which 
is the partition between Neck and Body, marking the figure upon 
this point, which must be marked upon the garment, the tape-meas- 
ure is held with the finger and with the remaining end it must be 
measured downwards in front upon the other indicator, marking 
down the figure received. 



N. B. — The first measure from the Hip to the vertical point, indi- 
cates the length of the upper part of the body, and by means of the 
whole measure from Hip to Hip, it will be seen if the body has a 
one-sided position. These measures should not be taken too tight 
nor yet too loose. 

8 . PosiTK >\-mi kSURE. — Measure with the Centimeter from the same 
Hip, at the back, upwards in a straight direction over the Shoulder- 
plate upon the vertical point after marking the figure, the Centimeter 
is again to be held with the finger upon the said point and with the 
other end, measure downwards upon the right Hip, marking the fig- 
ure received. 

X. B. — The first measure from the Hi]) to the vertical point indi- 
cates, if the body has a straight, for or backwards inclinated position, 
the whole measure has the same object as by the length-measure. 

g. Length-measure of Leg. — This is to be measured with the 
applied Centimeter in straight directions downwards to the Heel, and 
towards the front upon the mark which was made before. Both fig- 
ures must be marked. 

X. B. — In case it is not quite certain that the legs are straight, 
the customer is to be requested to stand so that his feet touch each 
other, and if an opening should be found between the Knee the 
amount which can be measured by means of the flat of the hand 
must be marked. In case the Knees touch together, but not the feet, 
the amount of this must also be marked. 

10. Vest-length.— In case a determinated length should be re- 
quired, it is to be measured from the vertical point at the front 
downwards upon the stomach. 

//. Coat-length — This is to be measured from the vertical 
point downwards. 

12. For an Overcoat it requires only the Construction-measure 
over the Dresscoat and the determinated length of the coat. 

N. B. — These measures should not be taken over the Coat, but 
over the Vest, since the parts of the body which are to be measured 
would not be marked out enough. 



description of tl^e Cokt ^ppkfktuS. 



Par* 1. The apparatus is divided in four parts which represents 
the boundaries of the area, whereon the certain figures has to be 
drafted. 

The diagram represents : 

Ai the Short Rule. 
A " Back " 
B " Waist " 
C " Neck " 
D M Breast " 

Par. 2* Upon the short rule Al, joint with the back rule A by 
two pivoted clasps, of which the upper one is called Breast-line, 
indicator b are a single row of figures for the purpose of indicating 
the side length from arm-pit to hip-point by the respective & figure. 
This is only necessary by drafting without a measure. 

Pav. 3. The main rule A, whereon all graduations are constructed 
has three rows of figures. 

d» The outside row shows the construction figures, which are 
marked, by taking the measure of shoulder-circumference (meas. i.) 

6. The figures on the centre row are regular Centimeters, 
whereon the first marked figure of length-measure shall be found, 
which was measured in measurement (7). 

C. Where against the front corresponding a figure, indicates the 
width. 

<?. For instance 52 would be the first marked figure of length- 
measure, then the hip indicator (a) is to be slidden upon this figure. 

N. B. — The second marked figure of this measure is used only by 
unproportional bodies, in which case, patterns of both sides of the 
body are required. 

e* The small reduced figures at the upper end of rule A and those 
on the inside row have equal designs to indicate the section between 
neck and breast. 

f. The construction figure (section a) is now to be searched for, 
and the figure of the centre row which is the nearest to the searched 
construction figure is the {(l) figure, which is a guide for all cor- 
responding figures graduated on the apparatus. 

N.B. — Except the figures on the short rule AJ:, which are used 
only in case of drafting patterns without measure. 



8 

(J. For instance, no is the construction figure, 48 should be the 
a re, as this is the nearest one, and is therefore the guide. The 

indicator b is now to be slidden upon this figure, but, so that the 
mark is to be seen above the indicator. 

h. The short rule Al is now to be pressed into the end clasp of B, 
so that the perforations of the clasp and indicator a are fitted 
correctly upon each other. 

Par. 4:. The rules \i and B when combined forms a right angle 
and when the fastening pins are passed into the said perforations the 
rules A and B also forms a right angle. 

N. B. — It is requested to look upon the copy on account of leaving 
room enough along the side of the back and neck rules A and C for 
changing the position. 

Par. o. a. The rule C indicates the neckline and is combined 
with rule D, which indicates the breastline by pivoted and sliding 
clasps. 

The rule C is to be slidden in the upper clasp. 

6. The rule D which has no other determination, swings with its 
upper end in the upper clasp. 

C. The same clasps are upon rule B. The rule D slides and 
swings itself in the under clasps, and the under clasps is to slide 
upon rule B, as the figure indicates. 

Par. (i. In this section I draw the attention upon the three rows of 
figures on rules B and C. 

«• The figures of the outside row on both rules are correct Cen- 
timeters, and the a figures indicate the width of the area, whereto 
the clasps combined with rule D are to slide. 

6. The inside row indicates by the d figures the half intersection 
(C line), and the same figures the hip- point upon rule B. 

€• The centre row indicates the front intersection (H line), the a 
figures and upon rule C, the neck points whereupon the neck- 
indicator h is to be slidden so that the mark is in sight inwards. 

dm These intersection lines have to be drawn as soon as the 
apparatus is brought in its determinated position by the measure of 
position. These lines will always run parallel with rule D in any 
position and connects the upper with with the under a figures. 

Par. 7. The end clasp of rule C is now to be pressed in rule A, 
upon the a figure 48, found by the small reduced figures, so as to 
leave the mark in sight downwards. 



9 

N. B. — The combination of rule C and A must stay in a right 
angle, however, the position may be changed. 

Par. 8i a. At the back ends of rule C is the reduction of a 
square according to all the different sizes indicated by the a figure, 
which gives the w r idth of the back, this is not to be altered. 

N. B. — This square is used also in other parts of the drawing. 

ft. The clasps thereupon graduated is now to slide upon the a 
figure, so as to leave the mark in sight towards the left. 

C. Then the indicator e is slidden alongside the rule C until the 
point touches rule A. 

d. The point with the hereby received square distance is now 
turned upwards parallel with rule A, and indicates the necessary 
square. 

e. Along the left hand side of the indicator, a short line Jc shall 
be drawn, this line is not to be removed, for it is used by .further 
drafting. 

Par. 9. a. Now the lines A, B, C, D are to be drawn at the in- 
side of the rules which are called boundary lines. 

6. Then lay the ruler with its clasp in rule D, and draw the breast- 
line E upon the a figure at the inside row of rule A. 

Par. 10. a. Now take the Centimeter and measure from the 
hip point upwards in the corner of indicator e and rule C, as shown 
in figure 2. 

6. If the marked figure agrees, which may be 48 in the corner 
the apparatus will keep its position, and the body in this case would 
be horizontal. 

Par. 11. But when the figure which was measured reaches up 
higher, for instance 51, as seen in fig. 3, this shows a forward in- 
clinated position and the apparatus is to be removed in the following 
manner, which is illustrated in fig. 3 : 

a* The fastening pin is now to be drawn out of the indicator a 9 
and passed through the perforation of rule B to preserve the under 
part of the apparatus from getting out of the right angular position. 

6. Now, the upper part of the apparatus is to be slidden upwards 
as far as the position measure requires it. 

C. After this a small line 6 is drawn along the inside of neck- 
rule C from the indicator e to rule A. 

N. B. — By a forward inclinated position, this line is necessary to 
mark thereon the distance of the upward extension of the apparatus 



IO 

from the line A towards the indicator e, as the space is covered by 
the removing of the apparatus. 

Par. 12. Fig. 3 and 4 shows the fore or backward movements of 
the apparatus. It is positively necessary to pay attention to the in- 
side corner of the apparatus, which is performed by the rules, A and 
C must be removed from the A line forward or backwards, as much 
as the apparatus has been moved up or downwards, right angular 
with rule C, intersecting thereby the m point with the same rule. 

Par. 13. But if the position measure, with figure 45, in this case 
reaches up to the previous announced corner, this would indicate a 
backward inclinated position. See fig. 4. 

N. B. — The distance from the (I figure whereon the indicator e is 
placed to the rule A, indicates the width of the back which is not to 
be changed, as it must agree with the front length. 

N. B. — Your attention is called not to change the right-angular 
combination of the rules A and C, by removing the apparatus which 
can only be performed in the indicator 6, and in the clasp which 
combines the rules D and B. 

Par. 14f In case the apparatus must be removed, the removed 
boundray line Al from the pivoted point of the back rule and Cl and 
Dl are now to be drawn. These lines are now guided. 

Par. 15. a. By removed positions, a second breast-line Ei is re- 
quired, which is performed by laying the ruler with its clasp in rule 
D, and by drawing the line it must pass through the tl point. 

N. B. — This second breast-line is now guided. 

b. F, G and H lines are now to be drawn. 

Par. 10. Drawing of the diagonal lines. 

a. By means of a narrow perforated ruler which is placed in the 
upward extending pin on the indicator C upon the rule C, after it is 
slidden upon the H line. 

Line 1 must cut the F line above the rule C. This intersection 
forms the vertical point. 

Now, the 2nd and 3d lines are to be drawn. 

The 3d line must be drawn on the corner of the guided breast 
line and rule A. 

&• The main ruler is now laid with its clasp into rule D on the 
breast-line, and the indicator d is to be slidden on the H line, 

Now, are the lines 4, 5 and 6 to be drawn. The 6th line must be 
drawn from the intersection of ¥ and K line, and has no other 
determination as to indicate the position of the shoulder. 



1 1 

Cm The ruler is again laid in rule D, and is to be drawn right 
angular with it. 

Line 7, through the intersection of the 2nd and 4th line. 
" 8, " " " 1st " 4 th " 

14 9, " M M 3d " 4 th " 

d. The ruler is now to lay in rule C, to draw the 10th line through 
the intersection of the 3d and 4th line. Then the nth line is to be 
drawn. 

Par. 17. Explanation of the circular line, fig. 2. 

a. The compass is to be set with one point upon the intersection 
of the 2nd and guide breast-line and with the other point upon the 
fl 9 from which a circular line must be drawn upwards. The 
compass is now set with the same width upon the intersection of the 
8th and 2nd line, where-from a 2d circular line is to be drawn. 

The intersection of these two circular lines forms the centre point 
of the circular line I, of the arm-hole. 

6. The compass is now set upon the O and fl point, and with a 
circular line from the 71 point is the 4th line to be intersected. 

This intersection forms the centrepoint of the circular line II of 
the armhole. This line must always cut the intersection of the 9th 
and 5th line. 

N. B. — Thet* point is in the centre between the 2nd and 10th lines 
by proportional bodies, except by short stout persons, this point 
does not come in the centre and the compass must therefore, be set in 
the centre of the two announced lines indicated in fig. 6. 

Cm When the circular line I intersects the 7th line, the compass is 
to be set upon the intersection of the circular line II and 7th line 
and on the intersection of the 3rd and 6th line, with this tension the 
compass is to be placed upon the 7th line with the first point upon 
the intersection of the 2nd and 7th line, and with the other point 
upon the 7th line. Now, with the first point the circular line III of 
arm-hole is to be drawn. 

JPciV. 18. Drawing of the shoulder. 

dm The first point of the compass is to be set upon the intersection 
of the 7th and H line, and the second is to be set in the corner of 
H, and guided breast-line. 

b. With this tension the compass is now to be set upon the inter- 
section of the 3rd and 6th lines, and with the other point a mark on 
the 7th line is to be made, from whence the circular line IV is to be 
drawn, forming hereby the shoulder. 



12 

N. B. — This circular line must be drawn elxactly through the 
corner of line II and C, and must be extended by means of the nth 
line. 

Par. 10. The circular lines of the sleeve. 

a* The first point of the compass is to be set on the intersection 
of the 9th and 2nd line, and the second point on the intersection o 
the 9th and 5th line. 

b. From both intersections are circular lines to be drawn with the 
same tension of the compass, and where these two lines intersect 
themselves, is the centre point of the circular line V. 

N. E. — This line indicates the sloping of the upper sleeve and 
has to be drawn through the first mentioned intersections down to 
the seventh line. 

Par. 20 Where the line V, intersects the first line, this intersec- 
tion indicates the centre point from which the circular VI. is to be 
drawn through the intersection of the eighth and V line. This 
forms the slopeings of the under sleeve. 

Par* 21. The main lines for the width of the sleeve. 
a* These are to be drawn right-angular, therefore, it is necessary 
to lay the ruler on rule B. 

6. A 1 2th line is now to be drawn from the rule B upwards 
through tho intersection of the 7th and circular line V. 

C. In the same manner a 13th line is now to be drawn through 
the 8th and 10th lines. 

Par. 22. The Apparatus is now to be set aside and the drawing 

is to be continued as follows: 

a. From the veitical point a 14th line is to be drawn in the cor- 
ner of guide C and D lines. 

6. The compass is now to be set with one point upon the vertical 
point, and tbe otht r upon the corner of D, and F line 

C. A circular line is now to be drawn from this last mentioned 
corner, downward ihrough the 14th line. Upon this intersection 
the compass is to set with the same tension as before, and a circular 
line VII, which forms the neckhole is to be drawn. 

Par. 23. A 1 5th line is required from the vertical point through 
the intersection of the 5th and C line, but it is necessary only to 
draw it from here upon line A, indicating with this distance, the 
back part of the neck-circle. 



<3 

JPar. 24. a. The square distance which is formed by the indica- 
tor (e) is now to be marked upon the A line, from the corner of A 
and B line upwards, with point p. 

6. Now the i6th line is to be drawn from point p 9 through the 
hip-point, which indicates the correct intersection of the waist. 
Description of Paragraph 25. 

By a proportional form the widths of the body is divided as follows: 

First — The under width is two squares less than the upper width, 
and is divided from the Hip in one square forwards and one back- 
wards. 

Second — The one square backwards is to be subtracted by the 
slope. 

Third — Therefore, the seams must be brought in account so as 
to have the correct fourth part of the waist measure, from the side 
seam to the back seam after the coat is made up. This will be 
measured from p 9 forwards in a straight direction, which is neces- 
sary, because the body is wider below the waist. 

Fourth — The other squares in front is to be subtracted off at the 
front from the D line upon the B line inwards. 

Fifth. — The other half is to be subtracted from the Hip upon 
the 1 6th line forward, which forms the slope on the side, and which 
is indicated by drawing a 17th line from the point downwards 

N. B. — Besides the seams, a small addition is necessary. 

Par. 25. The regulation of the Waist by measure is to be managed 
as follows : 

CT. After having subtracted the width of the Hind- part which is to 
be marked with point p from one quarter of the Waist-measure, the 
remaining part of this quarter is to be measured upon the 16th line, 
from the Hip-point towards the Back. The amount is to be marked 
with point V with subtracting the seams. The distance from q to V 
forms the hind sloping. 

&• From the subtracted half-a-square at the front which was 
marked in the fourth part of the Waist-measure, is to be measured 
towards the Hip-point, indicating thereby the sloping at the side. 

€• If the measure should reach upon the Hip-point, this indicates 
no sloping, only a small sloped addition downwards is necessary to 
allow the stretching of the Side-part, this is to make the coat fit 
better in the flank. 

€?. But if the measure reaches further than the Hip, this amount is 
to be added to the front. 



H 

N. B. — The addition already mentioned at the front is to be 
marked here also. 

Par. 2(i. a. To regulate the front part of the lower Waist, one- 
fourth of the Waist-measure is to be measured from the Hip-point 
backwards, upon the 16th line from here, one-half of the Abdominal 
width is to be measured upon the same line towards the front, also, 
pay attention that the amount of the slope is to be added at the 
front in case one may be indicated. 

6. Incase the Abdominal width might reach further than the 
Waist-measure determines, a slope as shown in Figure 6, is to be 
made. 

C. But if it does not reach so far, a slope as shown in Figure 2, 
is to be made. 

\. B. — By the Vest the same management is necessary to regulate 
the Waist as described in these two paragraphs. 

Par. 27. a* From the horizontal D line an addition of three 
quarters of a square is to be marked upon the sloped Breast-line to- 
wards the front. 

ft. Through this mark the Breastline is now to be drawn with an 
addition of a seam at the Neck-hole. 

C. From the D line backwards no slope is allow r ed to be made in 
the Xeck-hole. 

Par. 28. Drawing of the circular lines to regulate the hind slope 
in the Waist. Fig. 2. 

a. From the line H a circular line is drawn from the intersection 
of the 8, and circular line II downwards through the point q upon 
the line B. 

This circular line indicates the correct sloping of the Backpart. 

6. From the centre point where the circular line VIII is drawn 
on 1 8th line is to be drawn upon the corner of the 10th and guided 
>i-line, and where this line intersects, the 2nd line is the centre 
point for the circular line IX. 

C. This circular line has to touch the line VIII, as shown in the 
drawing, and indicates the sloping of the Side-part. 

Par. 20. The square which is formed by laying a short ruler in 
the clasp of mam ruler, and which is to be kept in this position by a 
pivoted spring, is now to be laid on the 16th line to draw a 19th from 
point ft 9 downwards, forming thereby the sloping of the under end 
of the Side-part, and indicating the correct slope of the waist at the 
Back by the intersection of the circular line VIII and the 19th line. 



i5 

Pctr. 30. Instructions for drafting the sleeve, indicated in fig. 2 
3, 4, for the purpose to give an idea that the sleeve is to be drafted 
always equal, no matter how the position may be. 

a. The t 2th and 13th lines are to extend downwards. 

b. Upon the B line a mark t is to be made, a square from the 13th 
ine towards the front. 

C. From this point a 20th line downwards is to be drawn paral- 
lel with the 13th line. 

d* The length of the sleeve is determinated from the 8th line 
downwards, in the following manner : 

e. The distance from the intersection of the 8th and G line and 
point t is to be measured, which indicates the half length of the 
sleeve. 

f* The same distance is to be marked with the point U upon the 
20th line from point t downwards, which indicates the full length of 
the sleeve. 

gr. Through this point U* the 21st line is to be drawn right 
angular with the 13th line. 

h. Now, the square is to be laid so as to touch with the point, 
he 13th line and intersecting with the legs the points t and li. 
The lines drawn longside the legs are both marked with fig 22. 

i. Now, the square is laid again with the one leg on the line 
22, which intersects the point %b f so as to intersect with the other 
leg, the intersection of the 12th and 21st lines. 

A 23d line is now to be drawn longside the square. 

j. The front sloping of the sleeve is to be formed according to 
the proportion of the body by marking a half-square upon the 22nd 
line inwards. 

h. From the intersection of the 7th and circular line V and in- 
tersection of the 1 2th and 23d lines. The lines 24 and 25 are to be 
drawn upon this mark, determinating the proportional form of the 
upper sleeve. 

I* The 26th line is to be drawn upon the same mark from the 
intersection of H and circular line VI with the addition of a seam. 

fn. Upon the circular line II of the Armhole is a 27th line to be 
drawn through the mark which indicates the Sleeve seams. These 
lines form the section of the undersleeve. 

fl» A small sloped addition at the front point of the upper sleeve, 
which is shown in drawing, is given to prevent the tightness of it. A 



t6 

O. The upper part of the Sleeve has the exact width, which is 
required by the Arm-hole. 

_p» The place where the hind seam of the sleeve may be placed is 
indicated on the drawing by a mark in the centre of the 8th and 9th 
line upon the circular line II of the Arm-hole. 

q. The intersection of the circular lines I and VI is the place for 
the front seam of the sleeve. 

r. The under sleeve is to be sewed in smoothly, only towards the 
hind end, it maybe somewhat stretched, and under the arm a little 
loose. 

&• The part of the Arm-hole which has to be stretched is marked 
in the drawing with two crosses. 

t* In case the Arm-hole can't be stretched, a small addition at the 
point of the Arm-hole on the forepart has to be added. 

U. If the fashion desires wide sleeves, the 22nd line must be ex- 
tended at the elbow, and the amount which shall be made wider is 
to divide by proportion in two parts at the elbow, and one part at 
the front, which can be seen upon the drawing in fig. 6. 

V. In case the sleeve should be wider around the Wrist, this can- 
not be widened beyond the 12th line, but only at the hind part. 

Par* 31* (t>. By an intersected Waist which has to reach exactly 
to the Hip, the correct intersection of the Back is the S point and 
of the fore-part of the 16th line. 

6. Except by forward or backward inclinated positions there is a 
modification made on account of the form which is to be seen in fig. 
3 and 4. 

C From the corner of the 9th and removed A line, a line is to be 
drawn' through p, which is marked with X, and which determinates 
the direction of the Back-seam. Now, the square must be laid with 
one leg on this line and with the second on the Hip-point, and 
along this leg a second line is to be drawn, which is also marked 
witha% This line determinates the proportional length of the Back for 
sm h position, whereupon the 31st or 3d line must be drawn. After 
this, the management is the same, as described in the remark of 
section f\n par. 32. 

d. If the waist is to be extended this must be done equally around 
the body, but the sloping at the Hip and back-part must be brought 
in, as the body is wider below the Waist. 
6. If by an extended waist the backpart should get more narrow 



»7 

below the S point, as it may be at the H line, the wanted amount is 
to be added to the sidepart, but only at the under sloping. 
Par. 32. Forming of the Skin. 

a. The double amount of the indicated square is to be marked 
upon the A line from the corner of A and B line, downwards. 

6. Through this point a right angular 2Kth line with A line 
towards both sides must be drawn. 

C. To determine the hindpart of the backskirt, a 29th line must 
be drawn right angular with the r6th, from point p, downwards 
upon the 28th line. This point is marked with V. 

X. B. — With this addition the h df-square is again supplied, which 
was subtracted at the front from the guided D line inwards to deter- 
mine the width of the Waist, as the body requires it. 

dm In case the Coat shall have an extended Waist, the sloping of 
the backseam is to be regulated by the 29th line, or by Coats which 
ha\e no intersected Waist. 

e. The width of the hindskirt at the end must be square from the 
A line backwards, but not more. 

N. B. — This instruction is to be used for any form of coat. 

/• Now, the 30th is to be drawn parallel with A line, which 
forms the full width of the hindskirt without the addition for the 
plaits, and the 31st parallel with the 16th, both lines are to be 
drawn through the 8 point. 

N. B. — If the waist should be extended, then both lines are to 
be drawn through the point of extension. 

g. The point of the sidepart must be drawn close upon the 
(Par. ^^, sec. f.) drawn skirtline, and the sidepart is to be stretch- 
ed in the hollowing. 

h. The amount from g to S is to be marked upon the 28th 
line from the 30th line, backwards with point IV. 

%• Through points IV and S a 32d line is to be drawn, indicating 
downwards the width of the Skirt, and in the same direction up- 
wards, with a mark upon the right angular neckline, the centre 
point for the sloping of the skirt in the waist, which is necessary 
by wide skirts. This is to be drawn from the point of the side- 
part upon the skirtline as it is seen in fig. 5. 

h. To draw the under roundness of the skirt, it is necessary to 
lay the ruler on the points V and W, and upon the right-angular 
neck-line whereon the required counterpoint is to be marked, from 



where the said sloping « an be drawn from the hind end of the skirt 
towards the front, until in the right-angular direction of the centre- 
point. 

V B. As wide as the skirt may be, the further towards the front 
the sloping itan be drawn from the centrepoint: 

£. The end of the skirt for the hind part, is to be drawn from the 
corner of K and guided C line. 

m. But if the waist should be extended, the 31st or skirt line 
must be drawn from the extension, which is marked in figure 5 with 
3, X. 

/*. rhe 32d line which determinates the width of the skirt, is not 
to be rem* >\ ed. 

o. In case the skirt shall be made wader, the skird-line is to be 
drawn lower, and as much as it is made lower, the same amount the 
point W has to be removed upon the 28th line backwards, as shown 
in figure 5. 

/>. The 32d line must now be drawn through the removed point 
\\\ ami through the point S, marking, hereby, the centre-point upon 
the right-angular neck line, for the upper sloping in the waist, and for 
the under roundness, the section ci is to be used. 

Par. S3. Description of the figure 7. 

(I* As much as the waist shall be extended, a parallel line is drawn 
with the 16th. 

b. Just as much the hind part has to be drawn below the B line. 

C. Now an absolute width for the hind part is to be marke 
the determinated end. 

<7. Through this point the 30th line is drawn, according as in 
(Par. 30). 

6. To receive the hind sloping of the waist, and also to mark the 
point R, the management of (Par. 25) is hereby necessary. 

f* The width of the hindpart at the arm-hole, can be regulated. 
according to the under width. 

f/. To draw the circular lines VIII and IX, the management of 
(Pan 29) is hereby used. 

h. On account of the amount of width at the hind part, a second 
line is drawn equal with the H line, upon which the centre point, 
for the circular line VII] shall be found. This is not always d 

ich a width, for as much as the compass is set towards the 
front, so much the circular line will be less sloped. 



/. However, il is to be attended, thai the t 8lh line must be drawn 
through the circular line VIII upon the same point, and also the 
centre point upon the same intersection as in Part 29. 

j 9 By this coat as well as by sack-coats, the skirt of the forepart 
is sloped from the central point. 

Par. 34. Instructions for the (Figure 8) palleted. 

a. By such a coat it is not allowed to slope out so much at the 
hind part, to prevent a tension at the hip, which can be seen also up- 
on the drawing. 

b. By forming a common sack-coat, a straight line from the upper 
to the under end of the hind-part must be drawn, as shown in 
(Figure 8). The hind sloping must be kept full, and also the hind 
slope must be sloped only a very little. 

Par*. 35. Instructions for the overcoat. 

a. The management is the same as by a dress coat. By setting 
the apparatus in order, the hip indicator B, is moved over the 
marked figure of the length -measure as usual, and the breast indica- 
tor upon the A figure. 

b. This indicated length from the hip to the arm-pit ; is guided for 
the dress or overcoat. 

Cm Now the construction figure, which was measured over the 
dress-coat, is to be looked for upon the concerned row, and the ap- 
paratus is now moved upon the determinated A figure, which is guid- 
ed upon all parts. 

d» As much as the upper apparatus is extended upwards, the same 
amount is added to the position measure, by which the position is 
formed afterwards. 

e. Now the management is the same as by the dress-coat, and as 
all the A figures of the measure over the dress-coat, are now guided, 
this will enlarge the w T hole coat to make it fit exactly, to be worn 
over the coat. 

P&V. 36 9 Instructions for one sided forms of bodies. 

<l. The measuring upon both hips is therefore necessary, since it 
gives, not only forward or backward inclinated forms of bodies, but 
also one sided bodies. 

6* The best way to equalize such a one sided form is this. After 
having drawn the side, the first sheet of paper is laid aside, and a 
second sheet is laid under the apparatus. After the apparatus is set 
in position, according to the second measured figure of the length- 
measure, the second pattern is now drafted in the same manner as 
the first one. 



20 

c. But onl) the waist is to be drafted, since the sleeves and skirt 
are drawn upon the first pattern. 

(1. it will be evident that the lower part of the waist will be of 
some outward extension at the shorter side of the body, and by 
tig both side- of the garment, a tension at the hip will he pro- 
duced. - this, it is necessary to draw an addition towards 
the hip, amounting to about one half of the difference between the 
length measure of the first and second pattern. 

e. This is also to be observed where no sloping in the side is re- 
quired. In this rase, the amount is added at the side, which has to 
be attended to b\ cutting out the pattern. 

/. The front and hind length of both patterns, are only equalized 
loner ends by making one side a little shorter, and the other 
a lit le I'M' 

V B. — This management is guided by every style of coat or 
vest. 

T J fir. 37m Instructions for the drawing of collars indicated in 
;ure 8). 

tt. Draw a right-angle tt, I) y C; after this the breadth of the up- 
righl collar is to be marked from B, upwards upon the leg B, and C 
with point D, and the breadth of the lying collar with point E. Now, 
lines are to be drawn from I) and E, parallel with leg A and B ; after 
this, the neck hole is to be measured, and the amount is to be 
marked from B towards A, about the centre of leg A, B, and line D 
and from there the collar, according to the course of the neck hole, 
and the remaining part of the forming, is to be drawn according to 
the requirement of style. 

N. B. — These instructions are guided by coats, vests, or any other 
collars. 

Par. 3S. Instructions concerning the (Figure 9) ladies waist. 

CU The management is the same as by the other drawings of the 
coat, only at the shoulder upon the hind part an addition is drawn, 
which must be substracted from the shoulder hight of the forepart. 
This is for the purpose of bringing the seam more upon the shoul- 
der, but still, this is not necessary. 

?>• Now, the width of the back from the shoulder, from V to R is 
to be measured, and the amount is marked upon the guided neck 
line, with point X from the shoulder point of the fore part point S. 

C. Through point X, the circular line for the forming of the neck- 
hole, is drawn equally as by the vest. 



2 1 



d. As mentioned in the measurement, the second measure which 
is taken under the arms, must be measured upon the breast line 
fromt he back line towards the front, hereby the seams must be 
brought in account. 



De£drif>tioi\ of the Vejft. 

FIGURE 10. 

The management with the Apparatus, and also the drawing of the 
lines, are the same as on the Coat, (Par. 16, description of the diago- 
nal lines) where the difference first commences. 

Par. 1. Description of the Diagonal lines. 

a. One square is marked upon the guided breastline from point 
O, toward the front, which amount indicates the centre of the D and 

H line. 

6. From this point the first line is drawn in the corner of F line, 
and A rule. The intersection of this line and the H line is marked 
with point P. 

C. The second line is drawn from point O, in the corner of C 

rule and G line. 

d. From where the 3d line is drawn in the corner of the guided 

breastline, and A rule. 

e. The intersection of the 2d and 1st line, is marked with point 
G, and the intersection of ist and 3d line with point R. 

/. Now, the ruler is to be laid in D rule, to draw the 4th line 

through G. 

g. Also the 5 th line through point P, touching the A rule. 

h. In this formed corner, the 6th line is drawn from the central 

point. 

i. From this point the 7th line is drawn at the same time upon 

the N point. 

k. The intersection of the 6th and 2d line is marked with point 
S, and the intersection of the 7th and ist lines with point T. 

I. The ruler is now laid in the C rule, and by means of this the 
8th line is drawn through the point R, and the intersection of the 
4th line is marked with point U. 

m. The apparatus is now set aside, after this the 9th line is drawn 
from the vertical point in the corner of the guided A and C lines, and 
the intersection of the ist line is marked with point V. 

Par. 2. Description of the circular lines for the armhole. 

a. The centre of the points T and N, upon the 7 th line, forms 
the centre point I upon which the compass is set, and from point T 
the circular line is drawn downwards; the intersection of the 5th 
line, is marked with point W. 



24 

6. Now the compass is set upon U, and a second circular line is 
drawn upwards. Then it is set upon point N, and with a second 
circular line from W upwards, the first one is intersected. This in- 
tersection forms the second point II, for the circular line II which 
is to be drawn from the lowest point of the circular line I, upwards 
in the direction of point U. 

c. Now the compass is set upon point U, which forms the centre 
point III. and from W the circular line III is to be drawn upwards 
upon the 7th line. 

Par. 3.. The circular lines of the neck hole. 

a. The distance from R to V is to be marked, and the amount 
marked from S toward the front, upon the guided neck line with 
point X. 

6. The compass is set upon the vertical point and the corner of 
F, and the guided D line ; from here a circular line is drawn down- 
wards, the intersection of the 10th line, hereby forms the centre 
point IV, upon which the compass is set for the drawing of the cir- 
cular line IV, through the point X. This point shall not be marked 
over half a square beyond the H line towards the front. 

C. The compass is to remain in its position, and with the second 
point the distance upon the vertical point is measured, then the 
same point with the measured amount is to be set upon the guided 
D line, whereon this is to be marked, thereby indicating the debt of 
the neck sloping, 

d* To form the shoulder, a sloped line from S towards X is to be 
drawn, as indicated upon the drawing. 

Par. 4. Regulation of the waist. 

a. The same as by the coat, a square is marked upon the A line 
from the corner of the A and B line, upward with point Y. 

b* From Y the iith line is to be drawn equally as by the coat. 

C. An extention of three-fourths of a square is marked with point 
X upon the drawing. This extention can be of more or less amount 
according to the requirement. 

d. Now the 1 2th line is drawn from point Y, through Z. The 
division of the waist and abdominal width, is the same as by the 
( oat, which is to be seen in (Part 26 and 27). 

£• One-fourth of the waist measure is to be measured upon the 
10th line, from the hip point backward, with a half square. addition, 
marked with a small star (*). 



25 

f. Now the 13th line is drawn in a right-angle with the A line 
through point Z. 

g. Then the 14th line is drawn from the corner of the 5th and 
guided A lineupon point (*), and from here again the 15th line upon 
the corner of the 13th and A rule. 

N. B. — The addition for the sloped breastline, is by the vest only a 
half a square, which is the only addition which shall be given, except 
for buttons and button-holes. 



f)e^T t i|)tioi\ of $f)pki'atu£ fot< 'Pki^. 



JPar. 1. The apparatus consists of these rules which are repre- 
sented in the drawing, as follows : 

A, the leg rule. 

B, the seat. 

C, the foot. 

JPar. 2. Description of the A rule. 

The three rows of figures thereupon, are the following : 

a. The inside row are correct Centimeters, and it is necessary to 
use a tape-measure with agreeing Centimeters, as these figures are in- 
dicating the length of the leg. 

b. The same figure, marked by measuring the length of the leg 
from hip to foot, indicates the knee upon the inside row, and also the 
calf upon the centre row. 

C. At the upper end of rule A is the reduction of the seat meas- 
ure graduated, consisting of two rows of figures, indicating by the 
A figure upon the centre row, the abdominal line, and upon the in- 
side row the seat line. 

d. For instance, 96 is the marked figure of the construction meas- 
ure, so one half of this figure, which is 48, would be the A figure 
which is guided upon this graduation, as well as on the B and C 
rules. 

JPar. 3. Description of B rule. 

Upon this rule are six graduations, indicating the following 
points : 

a. The intersection of the fore part of the pantaloons are upon 
the graduation of the first and second row. 

b. The direction line upon the fifth row. 

Cm The width of the fore part upon the fourth row. 

d. The point of the fore part upon the third row. 

e. The addition of the fore part upon the second row. 

f. The point of the back part upon the first row. 

N. B. — On account of failing space, there are double graduations 
upon the first and second row. 



28 

Par. 4. Description of the C rule, which is also used as a ruler. 
Upon this rule are five graduations, indicating the following 
points : 

a. The point of directions upon the third row. 

ft. The width of the fore part towards the side, upon the fourth 
row. 

C. The width of the fore part towards the inside upon the second 
row. 

d. The width of the hind part toward's the inside, upon the first 

row. 

C. The width of the hind part towards the side, upon the first and 

second. 

N. B. — In account of failing space on this rule, double gradua- 
tions are upon the first and second row. 

Par. 5. Instructions for the use of the rules, by the drafting. 

a,. The A rule is now to be fastened upon the base-board, as 
shown in (Figure i, Then the first line is drawn along the in- 
side of the rule. 

b. The C rule is now laid into the A rule, on the marked figure 
of the length measure; (for instance, no). From this figure a 
2d line is drawn, and the points for the regulation of the width at 
the foot, is now to be marked with the marking indicator F, accord- 
ing to the A figure, as follows : 

C. First the point of direction A, then the width of the fore part 
with B and C, and the width of the hind part with D and E. 

(I. The ruler is now moved in the A rule, upward 's on figure no, 
upon the inside row, which indicates the calf; from this figure the 3d 
line is drawn. 

e. Then from the same figure upon the centre row which indicates 
the knee, the 4th line is drawn. 

/. Now the ruler is to be moved on the A figure 48, upon the 
centre row, and from this figure the 5th, or abdominal line is drawn. 

g. Then the ruler is to be moved upwards on the commencing of 
the Centimeter, and from here the 6th, or waist line is drawn. 

Par. (i. a. The B rule is now to be laid on the A figure 48, upon 
the inside row of the A rule, so as to leave the mark of the figure in 
sight above the clasp, and after fastened, the 7th, or seat line is to be 
drawn. 



29 

b. The ruler is now laid in rule B, and by means of this, the lines 
8, 9, and io are drawn from the according A figures upwards. Ac- 
cording to the A figures, the points of the fore part addition, and 
hind part, are to be marked by means of the ruler. These points 
are marked with F, G, and H. 

C. From the centre of the ioth line, and point F, is a nth line 
through the intersection of the 6th and 9th line drawn. 

N. B. — This line determinates the direction of the hind part. 

JPUV. 7. Regulation of the waist-width. 

a. Upon the 6th line, three-fourths of a square is marked, from 
the 8th line backwards,^ with point I ; this amount is found from 
point F to H. 

b. The fourth part of the waist-width is now subtracted from one 
half of the abdominal width, the remaining part should be measured 
in a straight direction, from the 8th to the ioth line. 

C. If this remaining part reaches up to the ioth line, there is no 
alteration necessary ; but if it reaches beyond the ioth line, this in- 
dicates a stoutness over the normal form. 

N. B. — How this is managed can be seen in the description of 
(Figure 2). 

d. The fourth part of the waist-width is now measured from the 
ioth line upon the I point. If it should not reach so far, the hip 
must be sloped as much as the failing amount indicates. 

e. But if the waist-width should reach beyond the I point, this in- 
dicates a corpulant waist, but the abdominal width remains normal. 
In this case the amount is to be divided equally at the hip, and be- 
fore the ioth line at the waist. 

f. A regular addition of one-fourth of a square is necessary, by 
every pair of pantaloons, for buttons and button-holes, which is al- 
ready indicated by the circular line I. 

JPuv* 8» Description of the circular lines. 

CI. The compass is now set upon point L andF, and a circular 
line is drawn from point F, upwards ; then it is set again upon the 
same point, and with a second circular line from B, the first one is 
to be intersected. This intersection indicates the centre point I, of 
the circular line I, which is drawn from point G upwards, performing 
hereby, the addition of the forepart. 

b. The compass is now set upon point M and G, and a circu- 
lar line is drawn from point G upwards. Then it is set again with 



3° 

the same tension, upon point L, and with the second point, the first 

circular line is to he intersected. This intersection indicates the 
centre point II, of the circular line [I, which is drawn from the F 

point upwards ; this 'performs the sloping of the fore part, which 
must be joined gradually with the circular line I, towards the waist. 

C. The intersection of the 5th and 1 ith line, is marked with point N T . 
The compass is now to be set upon this point, and in a right-angular 
direction upon the 7th line, from whence acircijlar line is drawn up- 
wards, intersecting, thereby, the 5th line. This intersection indi- 
cates the centre point III. of the circular line III, which is to be 
drawn from H upwards, through \\ hereby performing the slope of 
the hind part. 

fl. To determine the direction of the waist-band at the hind 
pan. The compass is to be set upon point M, and the intersection 
of the 6th and 8th lines. From this point the nth line is to be in- 
tersected. 

e. Then the compass is set upon point L, and the intersection of 
the- 6th and 8th lines; and with a circular line drawn from this 
point, the nth line is again intersected. 

JPdV* 9. Regulation of the width by drawing the following lines. 

a. The 12th line from point C, upwards upon F. 

b. The 13th line from the intersection of the 4th and 12th, up- 
wards upon (7. 

C The 14th line from B upwards, through the intersection of the 
7 st and 8th lines ; from here the line is sloped upon the point I, but 
it is not allowed to draw it beyond the intersection of the 5th and 
8th line-. 

d From the centre of the points C and E, a 15th line is drawn 
upon point G, and is then sloped upon H. 

e. From the centre of the points B and D, a 16th line is drawn 
upwards in the centre of the rst and 8th lines, upon the 6th. The 
sloping of this line in the corner of the rst and 6th lines, is shown in 
the drawing. 

f. The sloping of the hind part toward's the foot, is facilitated by 
drawing the 17th and 18th lines, as shown in (Figure 1). 

g If the width of the foot should amount to more than the in- 
structions are indicating, this must be equalh divided at both sides 
oi the hind part. 

h The second sloped addition at the hind pan, is shown in (Fig- 
ure 1 ). In 1 ase springs may be required, the fore part is to be ex- 
tended a« cording to this. 



3i 

I. The hind part is to be folded together lengthwise, in the centre, 

to vault it a little at the calf, and to iron it a little inwards at the 
knee pit 

A:. And the tore part should be ironed, SO as to fit exactly in the 
sloping of the hind part, to save the trouble of shortening the fore 
part afterwards. 

I. It is necessary to pay attention upon the two marks of the tore 
and hind part, which are indicated in the drawing, so as to have them 
fit exactly upon each other. 

Par. 10. a. The distance between the 4th andsth lines, is now 
to be measured upon the side seam of the fore part, and the amount 
must be marked upon the side seam of the hind part, from the 4th 
line upwards with the same mark. 

b. Every pantaloon must be extended above the waist line, with 
an addition of one centimeter, without bringing the seams in account, 
which is shown in (Figures 1 and 2). 

N. B. — This is therefore necessary, since by measuring the length 
by means of the belt, it is impossible to measure in the hip in such a 
manner, as afterwards the pantaloons will fit into the hip, and conse- 
quently they will be so much too short. 

C. From the uppermost marks of the fore and hind part, the equal 
length of both sides is to be regulated in the waist, from where the 
19th and 20th lines are drawn. 

d. In following the instructions, a slope is made in the hind part, 
as the regulation of the waist-width requires it. 

Par. 11. Description of (Figure 2) 

(I. VV'hen, as in (Par. 7, section C) is said, the remaining part of 
the abdominal width reaches beyond the 10th line, a second one is 
necessary to be drawn equal with the 10th, marked with 10-x. 

b. The distance between those two lines, must be marked with k-i , 
upon 10-x line above the waist line. 

C. The centre between this point and the 7th line, is to be marked 
with L-i upon the 10-x line. 

d. The amount of the distance between the point L-i, and the 5th 
line, is also to be marked upon the 10-x line from the 7th, or waist- 
line upwards with point f-c ; through this point the line 7-x is to be 
drawn, parallel with the 7th line. 

JPciV. 12. The circular lines are drawn in the same manner as in 
(Figure 1). 



a. The compass is set upon the 1-j line, and from f-i a circular 
line is drawn upwards. Then with the same tension it is set upon 
f-i, and from l-i a second circular line is drawn, intersecting, hereby, 
the first one. This intersection performs the centre point I, of the 
circular line I, which is drawn from g-i up, and then downwards 
through the 7th line, indicating the g-i point. 

b. The compass is now set upon point M, and from (t point a cir- 
cular line is to be drawn upwards. The same tension of the com- 
pass is set upon point L, to intersect with a second circular line 
the first one. This intersection forms the centre point II, for the 
circular line II, which is drawn through the point f-i downwards 
upon the 7th line, and upwards gradually joined with the circular 
line I. 

C. To slope the hind part by means of the compass, the same man- 
agement is required as described in (Figure 1). 

d. By such pants as hereby mentioned, the addition of the fore 
part, reaches more or less beyond the hind part, which can be seen 
upon the drawing in (Figure 2). 

Par. 13. (X. The 6-x line is to be drawn from point I to k-i, with 
the same addition above as in (Figure 1). 

6. It is necessary in this figure, to prevent the fore part from get- 
ting too wide, by drawing the 14th line upon the intersection of the 
6th and 8th line. 

C. If the waist measure should have more than the drawing of the 
hind part indicates, this is to be divided equally at the side and back 
toward the waist. 

JPar. 14. Instructions for crooked legs, (Figure 3). 

CL. By legs which are bent outward at the knee, which are indicat- 
ed with crosses upon the knee line, the amount which was found by 
the measurement, for instance, four centimeters are divided into 
four parts; the fourth part, or one centimeter in this case, is now to 
mark upon the 4th or knee line, from the i4th line outwards. 

6. From point B upwards, a second line is drawn through this 
point, which is joined gradually with the first one, towards the hip, 
as shown in the drawing. 

C. If the pantaloons should becoms too wide at the knee, they have 
to be sloped a little at the inside seam. It should be, however, more 
agreeable to leave them straight, since the bended form of the leg 
would be of less notice. 



33 

d. The 16th line, or outside seam of the hind part, is not to be 
altered, except for the purpose of sloping the same amount as by the 
fore part has to be added to, upon the knee line. 

C. The management of the inside seam, is the same as by the fore- 
part, but in case the pantaloons shall not become too wide, it is bet- 
ter to leave the fore part more straight, and to slope the hind part so 
much more. 

f. It is to be attended, that such pants are to be made a little 
longer at the outside, and at the inside, so much shorter. 

Par. 15. a. By such legs which are first bent from the knee down- 
ward, towards the outside, is the amount which was found by the 
measurement to divide in the same manner as in the last paragraph. 

b, As much as the fourth part amounts, every marked point of the 
foot width, it is to be removed towards the outside seam, except the di- 
rection point, but because the knee is not to be removed ; therefore, it 
first must be determinated by the regulation lines. Now the pants are 
to be regulated from the knee downwards, upon the removed points. 

C The pants are not to be altered on the inside seam ; at the knee 
however, it is better to add a small addition to the outside sloping. 

d. The same management as in the last paragraph, is here also ne- 
cessary, but contrary at the outside, a little shorter, and at the inside so 
much longer. The normal forms are marked with letters, but against 
the bended forms are marked with small rings. 

Par. 16. In (Fgure 4) it is shown how the cutting of the pants can 
be variously altered, according to the agreeable requirements or fashion 
without deviating from the normal form of the body. It is indicated 
above, how to give more length at the seat, which is required by the 
circumstances of many persons. 

N. B. — The pants patterns are all drafted, in such a manner as to 
make the wearing of suspenders unnecessary. The buckle-strap is to 
be sewed on, so as to touch with the upper end the 19th line, as shown 
in (Figure 1). 



INDEX. 

Page. 
Description of the Measurement, by means of the Measure-belt, 5 

Description of the Coat Apparatus. 

Par. 1. — Denomination of the Rules, ... 7 

2, 3, 4, 5.— Description of Rules A 1 , A, B, C, .. 7, 8 

G. — Description of the three rows of figures upon the 

Rules C and B 8 

7. — Combination of rules C and A, ... 8 

8. — Description of the Square graduations, in- 
cluding indicator k l upon Rule C, . 9 
i). — Drawing of the Boundary -lines A, B, C, D and 

Breast-line E, . , 9 

10 9 11, 12 9 13m — Instruction of the Position-measure, 
how the Posiiioji of the Body can be found, 
and how the apparatus is to be removed ac- 
cording to this, . . , . 10 
1 4= m — Drawing of the altered boundary -lines A , , C\D l 

after the apparatus is removed, . . 10 

lo» — Drawing of the altered Breast-line F l and Itne 

F,G,H, 10 

Hi* — Description of the Diago7ial lines, . 10 

lit * — Drawing of the Circular lines for A?~mhole, 11 

18 \ — For the Shoulder, ..... 11 

10* — For the upper Sleeve . . . . , . 12 

20 ', — For the under Sleeve,. .... 12 

2 1 .— Drawing of the construction lines for the Sleeve, 

including the width, . . . 12 

22. — The setting aside of the apparatus and drawing 

of the Neck-hole, .... . 12 

23 .—-Drawing of the 15 th line, the hind part of the 

Neck-hole. ..... . 12 

24:* — Drawing of the 16th line, the co7'rect Waist- 
length. ..... . 13 

25. — Regulation of the width by a proportional form 

of the Body, .... . 13 



INDEX. 

Page. 

25, 2 G — Regulation of the Waist by measure, . 14 

27. — Drawing of the sloped Breast-line i . . 14 

28. — Drawing of the circular lines for the purpose of 

regulating the hind ivaist sloping, . . 14 
20. — Information for the under sloping of the side 

part, 14 

30. — The finishing of the Sleeve, ... I5 
31. — Instructions about the alterations of the Waist- 

length. . . . .. . . . 16 

32.— The drafting of the Skirt, . . . 17 

33. — Description of Jig. 7, .... 18 

#4. — Description of fig % 8, Paletots, ... 19 

35* — I fist ructions for drafting an Overcoat, . . 19 

3d. — Instructions about one sided bodies, . 19 

37. — Instructions about drawing of Collar S) . . 20 

38. — Instructions of fig. p. Ladies Waist, . . 20 

Description of the Vest 

1. — Drawing of the Diagonal Lines y . . . 23 

2, 3. — Drawing of the Circular Lines for the Arm- 

and Neck-hole. ..... 24 

4. — Regulation of the Waist, .... 24 

Description of Appraratus for Pants, 

1. — Denomination of Rules, .... 27 

2, 3, 4. — Description of the Rules A, B.C.. . . 28 

5. — Instruction about the using of the Rules, fig. 7, 28 
— Drawing of the Seal-line and upper construction 

Lines ...... 28 

7. — Regulation of the Waist-Width, . 29 
8. — Description for the Circular Lines, . . 29 
0. — Regulation of the Widths by means of perform- 
ing Lines, . . . . . 30 

10 9 — Regulation of the Length , ... 31 

11. — Instructions about t hie fig. 2, . . . 31 

12. — Description of the Circular Lines : . . 31 

13. — Drawing of the 6-X Line, ... 32 

14:. — Instructions about Crooked Legs , ... ^^ 
lii . — Extension of the Seal-length and alterations of 

stj'le> ' 33 



__c 







-U 




tyta 6 









^?SC 





■*-*?*.:.. , 



eJUg JO. 



7 



o ^ S ^ 







ULLRICH'S 



flaUnt §§aj5imng JMt, 



AND 



APPARATUS FOR DRAFTING 



Tailors' Patterns. 



By F. H. ULLKICH & SONS. 



3t» $ mtfe : 



JAM ESC. BALDWIN & CO., Steam Job Printers, 
35 & 37 Vesey Street. 









»j> j> >.-? ■-> > * > ... > > -> •_>> 

' > o n > > >■ 3 >""> r> >£§> ; 

1 « >..3 > >• ■ y >) o 5 >> > 3 j> 1> ^ 

?. ' > > .> > ">•>■.> > -. • > :>~^» > > 

> D >~iOo O > 3 > > ) 

S \ ^< \ E£ ' '->> > -'■ ' " ' ~> 3 > ■> > 

^ ^z> 1% 



> 3 >^> 

> > ^ ")> ^ 

> 3 ^>> > > 
•> > > > 


















« ^ ^ > 






*>kw ■ — ™ ^^^^ 






■ > > > ! > ^> > ■> > >y>v> '•) 

> - ! 3 vv. >j?> >^v- 

^ ^?S£ £>3>> , 3 

0> ^ ^2 8 3 >3> ' £> 3 > > 3V- 

% >/' <?£? ' ? > •> ^ > > > -> 



S3» 3 -> ■> t> >db > -,; ab 



> > > > , > > >■; ) J> 

>3 %> 3 §> . . > 3 

>3 > . > .5 



° > p ? • > *^S?> .3 i > 5 



> > D > > r>rj> 3 > ;> "> > ii 

>} > >> 3 > > > ) )) : 

i0 3?O > ) ) Y 

3_> • j> j > > >. 2> r> r) -, - ; < << 






J2l> 3 :> o D ">>" 
3>> 3 > :yy> >^> 

i3> 3 :d ) V)> = 
^^>3 ^55)1) -r>=5 



K S ^ ' 3 3T> 

3 O > 3 ^>3 

^ u> P> 3^> 3^ 

3 X>'-^ > I> 33^ > 
^3 3 L_> 33 3 

3> 3 
3>3 
33 3 
>^> 3 

z>>:3^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 911 



